THE PLACE
Say what you like about posh restaurants, curry houses and burger joints, there are times when there’s nothing better than some proper pub grub. But let’s not forget, a pub is for drinking in. Bollocks to gastro-pubs that are no good for settling in for the afternoon, we just want a bit of something to keep us going. Fitzherberts show where their priorities lie by only opening the kitchen for a couple of hours a day. But they do clock in for four hours on Sunday to cook up roasts, so don’t call them lazy.

THE MEAL
Page one of the slender menu is a selection of interesting sandwiches, while page two is chilli and burgers. And that’s it. Until you find the specials board. Tempted by the ham, egg and chips (classic pub grub), we decide on the more exotic sausages, colcannon, roasted beetroot and red wine gravy (£6.50). As bangers and mash goes, it’s pretty damn good. Tasty, meaty sausages that are nice and brown, on top of mash mixed with cabbage (that’s the colcannon), and peas floating in loads of gravy. We don’t clock that the beetroot is missing and there’s big apologies when the chef notices. No problem as it’s insanely hot right to the last mouthful. The bubble and squeak, pesto mushrooms and grilled mozzarella (£5.50) is a similar success. The bubble is lovely and crunchy on top, where it peeks out from the pile of melted cheese, and the pesto mushrooms are a revelation. They even win over the fungi-shunning guest we brought.

THE VERDICT
For the money it’s really very good. We spent just over a tenner and even had a soft drink. At that price you can afford to get your stomach lined for a gentle afternoon session. We guess that’s the idea.

WERE WE SUSSED?
We met someone who used to be part of the SOURCE team and it was obvious he was a local but he didn’t grass us up, at least until after we left. And forgetting the beetroot suggests we weren’t sussed. Nice service anyway.

Fitzherberts
New Road
(01273) 682 401
Food served noon-2pm Mon-Sat, Roasts served noon-4pm Sunday