THE PLACE:
Pokeno Pies arrived in a flourish of awards so it was a bit of a shock when it just closed down. But phoenix-style goodness came out of foodie’s loss when The Manor popped up from nowhere. A little oasis on one of the busiest streets in town, it’s an unfussy place but with understated class. But is the food any good?

THE MEAL:
We have no struggle finding something to eat on the small menu of light bites and ‘autumn mains’ – plenty of dishes jump out at us. We pick the halloumi and orange salad with chilli dressing – normally a main – as a starter to share and two sets of cutlery are brought without complaint. The chilli-drenched leaves are tempered nicely by the orange, letting the grilled cheese and mountain of olives shine. The beef stew is thick and rich with tender meat – just how you’d hope stew to be. Likewise the lamb shank falls to bits when we prod it with a knife, while the best word for the gravy is indulgent. We go for the Lyonnaise potatoes (cooked in stock) but the subtle flavours are perhaps wasted with such powerful sauces. Though we barely have room we snuffle down a couple of deserts with enthusiasm. The hazelnut meringue with toffee sauce has ice cream filling and is deemed “yum-ee” while the chocolate fudge cake is lovely and dense.

THE VERDICT:
There’s not a lot of room for calm and quaint in the middle of the North Laine, but The Manor has managed it. Lovely food, homely atmosphere, it’s a great place to stop off for lunch but an even better way to finish off a shopping trip. Not especially cheap, but worth it.

WERE WE SUSSED?
Yeah, we’re pretty sure we were, though no one said anything. The service was spotless from start to finish though, and the meal was good before we got the camera out.

The Manor

52 Gardner Street (01273) 691700

Tue-Wed 10:30-16:00, Thu-Fri 10.30am-9.30pm, Sat-Sun 10.30pm-6.00pm