THE PLACE
We’ve plugged this Grand Champion of the British BBQ Society’s Pitmasters Competition before, but it was at the Prince Albert when we first came across it. Since we’ve long mistrusted any promises of barbecue summers from our weathermen, an overcast July lunchtime seemed a good time to ignore the elements, head indoors and check out its relocation to the Worlds End.

THE MEAL
From a menu that contains burritos and quesadillas as well as simpler meat and rice dishes, we plumped for the 14-hour pit-smoked sandwich options of hickory and apple-smoked North Carolina pulled pork, and chopped BBQ rib (both £5.95), plus potato wedges (£2.50). The pulled pork shoulder comes in a bun with crunchy coleslaw and a sweet apple BBQ sauce. We were worried this might detract from this promised meat revelation but it was so good we ended up bringing it home in a little pot. And the pork? You’d expect such a slow cooking process to make it tender, but really – nothing prepares you for how good it is. And they’re obviously proud of it; the bun positively groans with its fleshy filling. A crunchy side salad joins it on the plate; often an afterthought but here it’s got real bite. The BBQ rib is similarly good; ribs we’ve had before are a lot of sticky faffing about for little meaty reward, but the shredded slow-cook version in this bun is just as tender and just as good as the other dish; piled high and sauced to perfection.

THE VERDICT
Seriously good – tender, tasty and loads of it for the price. Barbecue food without losing your eyebrows? Makes perfect sense to us.

WERE WE SUSSED?
Only by the Argus’ food critic, who happened to be in there. We shared his only complaint – the portions were so big we couldn’t order two courses.

BBQ SHACK
World’s End, London Rd
Tues-Fri 12-2.30pm & 5-9pm. Sat-Sun 12-9pm
Deliveries available on (01273) 275757