THE PLACE: Previously available from Ethel’s Kitchen, Treacle & Co’s cakes already have a bit of a following, which might explain why, when we arrive one weekday lunchtime, there isn’t a single empty seat in the house. No big problem, one of the lovely waitresses happily pops downstairs for chairs and we squeeze onto the one spare table. Considering the place has only been open since summer it’s an incredible success story, and it seems that even as busy as they are these days the all-important quaintness is so ingrained that the experience still feels like visiting a lovely tea room. Pretty mismatched shabby chic décor definitely helps, as does the handmade/make do and mend feel.
THE MEAL: If you don’t fancy cake (what’s wrong with you?) then you might be in the wrong place. There’s a good but small choice of hot snacks like soup, and we start off with Welsh rarebit and French toast, both £4. The former is tangy with plenty of cheese and some perfectly roasted cherry tomatoes but the latter might be the highlight of the meal. Light and fluffy, it almost floats off the plate but is held down by crispy, tasty bacon, sweetened further with maple syrup. We hardly need a dessert after that, but when in Rome… The gorgeous orange and chocolate cake (£3.50) seems to change from an orange dominance to chocolate as we scoff it down. We didn’t even notice that it was – like a handful of the cakes – gluten free. The treacle tart (£3.50) wasn’t as sticky and treacly as our tester prefers, but possibly she’d overdosed on sugar after washing the lot down with a hot chocolate (£2.50).
THE VERDICT: Really lovely – it will be a joyous little part of any afternoon. Just walking in feels like you’re treating yourself. There are so many cakes that will catch your eye you’ll be back again and again.
WERE WE SUSSED: It was so busy that we snuck in and out without anyone noticing really noticing, although that’s not to say the service wasn’t great. Taking pics was no trouble – why wouldn’t you want a photo of these pretty cakes?
Treacle & Co
01273 933 695
164 Church Road, Hove
