I don’t want to say Dilsk’s cutlery is better than their food (mainly because it’s absolutely not), but I cannot start this review without giving props to whoever put together their tableware. It was so unique and eye-catching, I had to refrain from popping it in my purse. I’m on record as saying the scallop cutlery in particular was that ridiculously delicate and slender, I’d be able to get away with wearing it as some form of avant-garde jewellery.

What that should tell you, apart from my potential tendencies towards kleptomania and absolutely dubious taste in fashion, is just how much attention to detail has been put into Drake Hotel’s new fine dining venture by Chef Patron Tom Stephens. Trained under Michelin-starred legend Tom Kerridge, Tom will be instantly recognisable to most Brighton foodies as Head Chef at the pass of Michael Bremner’s famed 64 Degrees. With this proven pedigree sitting firmly behind him, new venture Dilsk represents his vision of what fine dining in the city can look like.

We enter Dilsk down a narrow staircase within the main hotel, coming out into a small dining room that lies at eye level with the sea road outside. It’s an intimate setting, one that increasingly comes into its own as the daylight fades, allowing low lighting to throw soft, gentle shadows across the room. It’s relatively quiet to begin with but again, as the evening draws on, the atmosphere and conversational buzz grows. Dilsk is dining for couples, a subtle, romantic setting for those who love to sink into good company and even better food.

The tasting menu, which comes in at two price options, has its focus firmly set on sustainable produce sourced from ethical growers and producers from across the South East. Both menus are available in vegetarian guise, can be accompanied by wine pairings, and every dish on the menu is presented by a member of the kitchen team with a comprehensive explanation. Again, supreme attention to detail and if you’re a food-obsessed nerd, utterly delightful.

There are some absolute standouts on the menu that honestly deserve their own parade. From a trio of snacks that kicked off our culinary adventure, the goat with cauliflower and malt felt like a hug from the chef deep inside your mouth. Warm, thick, comforting and utterly delicious, we’d go back just for that. The laminated brioche was hot and steamy on the inside, crispy and crunchy on the outside, decadently slathered in creamy, unctuous, wild garlic butter that melted and oozed into every crook and cranny it could find. An Orkney scallop served smoky depth through ham fat dashi, peppery fire through homegrown nasturtium leaves, and cutting freshness through shiso vinegar, pickled cucumber and melon, while the tomato consume palate cleanser was beautifully clear and delicately crisp, bathing my tongue with flavours that sang with all the clarity of a Westminster choirboy.

As the menu moved through to its major players, my waistline got tighter but ever the consummate professional, my resolve held firm! Duty above all, I thought most selflessly, as I practically licked the plate clean of the dehydrated tomato exquisitely sacrificed to give the brill dish a deep, satisfying sense of umami. The softness of the brill fillet was subtly juxtaposed against firmer pieces of squid (the only time I’ve ever enjoyed squid might I add), a stuffed courgette counterpart providing its own vibrant burst of flavour and texture. The chicken dish with asparagus, black garlic and morels caused me to have a moment of quiet reflection. However, the absolute dish of the night had to be a surprise reprise of the laminated brioche, this time in the guise of bread and butter pudding. Was there ever a better rendition of this all-time classic? I think not. Piled high with braised shin that genuinely melted in the mouth at the point of consumption, this was a seriously clever little dish. Dreamy, creamy, rich and luxurious, it warranted a period of silence by all parties, eyes closed, bellies full, nothing but the genuine enjoyment of just downright delicious food.

More? Hold my spoon, I’m going in. Desserts came in the form of rhubarb with chamomile and marigold, followed by a lip-smacking gariguette strawberry (me neither, but all hail Google – it’s a French variety prized by pastry chefs), Caramac aero and hay custard tart. By this point my top button was undone and I was all set to roll myself up the stairs and along the seafront, until the lovely waitress came along with some final chocolates to finish it (read: us) off. Superb.

There were a couple of dishes that didn’t quite hit the same high marks of their menu contemporaries. The pale purple set custard that lay underneath our oysters didn’t deliver that slippery zing I expect from a quivering mollusc, and the Trenchmore wagyu was slightly underwhelming – I was expecting bells, whistles, and the forgotten memories of a pampered Japanese beef herd to tickle my tastebuds. But when the rest of the menu reaches such lofty heights, even the slightest off notes become more noticeable.

So, what’s the verdict? Dilsk is an absolutely fantastic addition to Brighton’s celebrated fine dining scene. It’s clearly been put together with thought, consideration and nothing but passion for local food. The service was phenomenal, the presentation stunning. As its reputation grows it will undoubtedly become a staple part of our city’s culinary-scape, and we’ll be all the richer for it.

Dilsk, Drakes Hotel, 44 Marine Parade, Kemptown, Brighton BN2 1PE
www.dilsk.co.uk
01273 696934
Lunch: Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays, 12:30 – 14:30
Dinner: Tuesday to Saturday, 18:00 – 20:30
Online reservations are available for 1-6 guests, for larger groups email [email protected].